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Offwidths


A "beta" lisitng for NW offwidths
Leavenworth:

The Thumb -Squeeze Chimney section about 30'; long. Definately not an OW. Most big gear is way too small. A  9" cam protects the bottom squeeze section (crux) and a 12" can be pushed above that. The crux section is the first couple of body lengths (flared) of the squeeze after which a nubbin and a few edges on the left wall provided a rest stop. A few moves after the rest the route becomes easier, but it is still difficult until the very top. Right side in seemed to be the way to go. There is a bolted anchor on top. The bottom section leading to the squeeze is about 5.9. One of the most impressive local onsight  FAs of the 80s.

Twin Cracks - There is a large bush growing out of the half-way ledge. The crux is getting to this ledge. The crack is fairly parallel sided. IIRC, cams to 7" should work on the lower section. The upper section is more flared. I remember this route as being much harder than the rating would suggest.

Twin Cracks: photo – Porter
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Carnival Crack - There are so many features that this crack is usually not climbed via traditional OW/squeeze techniques. Easy for the rating. Pro: 1 9"  optional, 2 #6 Camalots, 2 #5 Camalots will sew it up.

Carnival Crack:
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Big Bertha -

Big Bad Wolf - Bolted at the crux. Lower angle than it appears from Castle Rock. After the second bolt the angle decreases with every move, if you want protection in this section bring along a 9" cam. Probably 5.9 not 5.10. Climb it in the shade so TR'ing the face to the left is an enjoyable option. Like Carnival Crack this route has many features that reduce the need for pure crack technique.

Big Bad Wolf: From across the river
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Big Bad Wolf: From the base.
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Arselips & Elbows - A very tight squeeze chimney. A TR can be set well to the back.

Arselips & Elbows: photo - Buttonhead.
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Hyperspace p5 - AKA The Pressure Chamber. This pitch starts off with a hand crack that turns into an overhanging/bombay chimney. Crux is getting started in the chimney section. Large gear not needed. Possible dangerous loose flake at the belay at the end of this pitch.

Black Widow -

Easter Overhang - The crux is getting into the easier squeeze section above the roof. Originally rated 5.9.  Large gear not required.

Easter Overhang:photo - Porter.
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Roller Coaster Chimney -


Index:

Behind the 8-Ball - A forgotten Index classic?

Behind The 8-Ball:
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Another Man's Car - Short but steep. The removal of loose flakes dramatically changed the nature of this route after the FA.

Another Man's Car:photo - Vern Stiefal.
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Another Man's Car: AMC on the left. P1 of Lamplighter on the right. The location of the climber's feet in the photo shown above is marked in red.
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Lamplighter P1, P3: - The climbing on p1 (shown in the photo above) isn't as chimney-like as the photo would suggest. Uses a standard rack. P3 starts as hands but soon opens into a splitter chimney.

Lizard P3 - A short flared chimney. Large cams not needed and probably useless. Good practice for Yosemite.

Lizard p3: Affectionately known as Butt Lips Chimney. Photo:Pax
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Town Crier P2 - Crux is at the top. Large gear not needed.

Town Crier p2: Crux is moving around block exiting the chimney.
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NA Direct - A very short and very parallel crack. Crux is getting started after a move or two the difficulties ease dramatically. There is a belay in a chimney immediately below the OW. If you aren't using large cams, it is best not to use this belay because any falls from the OW will land directly on the belayer.

Narrow Arrow Direct Offwidth: The belay for p3 is visible on the left wall of the flaring chimney right below the obvious OW.
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Squamish:

Pipeline - 1 - green camalot, 1 - QD , 1 - VG#9 (with 2, you'd be very comfortable/stoked)

Scimitar - a couple of green cams, one 4.5 or so...this route climbed a LOT easier than pipeline...only offwidth the low angle first third...from there, it was liebacks to slotted right knees...each slotted knee = a completely chilled, no-hands rest...kinda weird climbing off the thing...can't remember what i placed there, but i did put something in to protect the exit...maybe pre-scope this move??

Tantalus Crack - #4 friend is too small for the bulk of the route...i used two 4.5 camalots instead...not sure of what the sizing for the new C4's would be...maybe a new #5?? if you look carefully at the topo, it says "4 1/2"; crack"...that is what it is...first time up, i brought a #4 camalot and wound up turning around and downclimbing...second time, clear sailing with two #4.5's...its actually pretty easy though...if i had known what was coming up, i probably woulda run it out the first time...my guess, it'd be 5.9 in the valley...wasn't able to, with my short arms, effectively reach to the sideways crack in the back and get gear in it, for a little while, but the 4.5's were the ticket.

Hypertension - This is more of a lieback problem than offwidth. The climb narrows towards the top, which if I remember correctly is the crux. Usually TR'd. Originally called Flowers of Evil.(?)

Split Beaver - This is a gradually widening straight in crack with a short lived crux. Gear to 5"; Easy for the rating.

Vantage:

Steel Grill - For the most part alternatives to wide pieces can be found.

In Too Deep - Easy for the rating. Camalots to #4.5 (a couple this size) Up to #5 would be better. Includes a chockstone tie-off.

Blue Autumn - Edges appear when the going gets tough. Word is this is easy for the grade. A couple #4s and a #6 (#5?) Camalot for the crux with a Valley Giant or Big Bro #4 for the top.

Blue Autumn: Sunshine Wall.
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Bat Caves:

Hanging Loose -

Hanging Loose:
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1 Comments

great list, nicely put together and no reply in 2 years? I know OW climbing not liked by many.

Or maybe few people look at the RCNW?

I am lousy at it, but keep trying. It's all part of climbing, just another puzzle to figure out.

If not too steep, I am ok, like the OW pitch on Backbone Ridge.

Working on my Butterfly hand stack.