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Snow White Pitch 1 goes clean

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#1 Baltoro



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Posted 22 July 2014 - 01:55 PM

This may be old info to some but I found no mention of it online after a bit of digging. I couple weeks ago I aided Snow White to the shared Princely Ambitions anchor without hammering any gear. Again, this might have been done before so I'm certainly not trying to toot my own horn. On the contrary, hopefully others who might be inclined to hammer will avoid doing so. 


The lower section from the second Princely bolt into the seam was definitely the crux to me. Either cam hooks or hand placed Tomahawks did the trick for me. The guidebook states A3 up higher and mentions loose blocks. While there is certainly some loose rock it seems like one can avoid the worst of it and find reasonable gear. In fact there's a bolt to clip on the route every four to five placements so pretty tame. 


All in all it was a lot of fun (in hindsight) but way too hot. Mostly medium to small gear. I brought a single set of cams above .75 or so and that was enough. I think I did place a #4 BD just below the anchors because I was too scared to switch back into a free climbing mentality for the 5.2 beached whale mantel. If you aren't a wuss like me and/or you have a belayer instead of a grigri whacking you in the junk you could probably leave the #4 and maybe even the #3 behind. 





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